Bugaboo Alpine Rock Climbing Gear List

Please review the following gear list well ahead of your trip to allow time to purchase any items that you need. Feel free to contact me with any specific question.

*Designates items you can rent from me .

Clothing System:

Base Layer Top: This will be your base layer and should be “lightweight” or “silk weight” synthetic or wool. Cotton is not good. If hot temperatures or substantial sun exposure is expected, light colors will feel cooler than dark colors. Synthetic or wool.

Base Layer Bottom: Look for the same features as your Base Layer Top.

Second Layer Top: A lightweight fleece or wind shirt. Nylon, micro weave fabrics, fleece, or wind stopper

Soft Shell Jacket: A thin, light, stretchy, breathable but wind and snow- resistant layer that is comfortable to wear is ideal. This will be your 'action layer' and the outer layer that you spend the most time in. Hoods are optional but highly recommended. Size your jacket to be trim fitting, but large enough to fit over your base and second layers. Schoeller, Powerstretch, Powerdry, or similar

Soft Shell Pants: A thin, light, stretchy, breathable but wind and snow- resistant layer that is comfortable to wear is ideal. This will be your outermost layer most of the time for your legs. Schoeller, Powerstretch, Powerdry, or similar

Shell Jacket: This layer needs to be waterproof and light weight. Your shell should be sized to comfortably fit over your other base and mid-layers (minus your insulating layer). Choose the lightest, most packable shell that will still get the job done. You may be using your jacket every day (in warm, wet weather) or perhaps only during an occasional storm. Avoid extra pockets (one or two chest pockets is all you need), 3-layer Gore-Tex, and hanging linings. Your hood should fit over your climbing helmet.

Materials: eVent, Gore-tex, h2No, or similar

Shell Pants: Same as shell jacket *if the weather forecast is looking good we will probably leave these behind.

Midnight Insulation Jacket: (puffy) Consisting of a baffled parka and optional hood, these come in many shapes, sizes and temperature ratings. If you tend to get cold easily, opt for a slightly warmer and more substantial parka. Primaloft or down. 

Soft shell or Leather Gloves: The most desirable glove is one that is comfortable and dexterous, so that it can be worn all day. It should be durable enough (leather palms) to handle ropes, ice axes, and a bit of rock scrambling. They come in different weights, so choose the thickness or warmth that is appropriate for your expedition.

Beanie Hat/Toque: A thinner warm hat that will fit under your climbing helmet and over your balaclava.

Socks: Bring several complete changes. Wool or synthetic. 

T-shirt: (optional) This shirt can be synthetic or cotton. If you plan to hike in it, synthetic is better. A cotton shirt can be a nice break from the synthetics while at camp/hut.

Shorts: (optional) Lightweight shorts are nice for warm days and hiking into camp.

Camping Equipment:

Sleeping Bag: Rated to around 55-35°F from for sleeping in the hut. Bring a 15° to 35° for if camping.

Big Internal Frame Pack: ~65 Liters is about ideal. Bigger is ok though for this trip. Smaller may be pushing it. We will only use this on the hike in and hike out.  

Hydration: 2 liters of water capacity minimum. Hydration bladders or water bottles.

Personal Medical Kit: For sunburn, blisters, cuts, scrapes, etc. Please include duct tape, moleskin, bandaids, blister care supplies, and prescriptions. 

Personal Toiletries: Bring small travel sized toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, deodorant, contact solution,etc.

Hand Sanitizer: Any alcohol based product for hand sanitizing work well.


Lip Protection

Sun Glasses

Head Lamp and spare batteries

Climbing Gear

*Modern Climbing Harness

*Belay device, 2 locking carabiners, 1 non locker, 1 double length sling

*Climbing Helmet 

Trekking Poles

*Ice Axe: *the lighter and shorter the better. Because the glacier travel and snow climbing is very benign and minimal in the Bugaboos, and the majority of the difficulties we will be rock climbing with the axes on/inside our packs we can get by by with very light and short axes. Good choices if you want to buy a new one would be the CAMP Corsa axe or the Petzl Ride. If you do not want to purchase a new axe you can certainly get by with any mountaineering style axe it just may be a pain point when rock climbing.  

*Crampons The lighter the better. Fit and compatible with your light weight mountaineering boots. Aluminum is preferable. Examples would be the Black Diamond Neve or the Petzl Leopoard. *Any standard mountaineering crampons that fit your boots are acceptable but just like the axe, the majority of the time these are inside your pack and only used for approaching the rock routes so if given a choice err on the side of lightweight and packability. 

Climbing Pack: 15-25 liters. Needs to hold crampons, axe, mountaineering boots, food, water, layers for the day. We’ll use this for the day climbs from the hut and the climbs around Banff. Light weight and packable is nice so that you can carry it inside your big pack up to the hut. Best if crampons and axe can go inside of it while rock climbing, but outside works too.


Approach shoes/light hikers: lighter approach style shoes or trail runner style. I currently really like the La Sportiva TX3 or the La Sportiva Bushido. *These are for approaching routes outside of banff where no snow or ice will be encountered, for hiking in/out of the hut, and used for hut shoes if appropriate 

Mountaineering Boots: 3 season style preferable, though any will function if you do not want to purchase a new pair. Great examples are the Solomon S/lab X Alp Carbon , Scarpa Ribelle La Sportiva Trango TRK, La Sportiva Trango Tower * Need to fit your crampons, need to fit inside of your climbing pack. The lighter the better.

Climbing shoes: selected for all day comfort and crack climbing performance. Good examples would be the La Sportiva TC Pro or the La Sportiva Otaki  

Hut comforts



Battery Pack and cords for recharging any electronics 

Ear Plugs

Clothes for hut (maybe packable shorts and a cotton t shirt or similar)